Saturday, May 29, 2010

'Nam: From Bustling Cities to Cool Highlands

Sinh Chao! from Vietnam. We are writing you from Dalat, in the central highlands where we have stayed for the cool breeze, steaming soy milk and the beautiful countryside. We have seen the south of Vietnam pretty well, starting off in the Mekong Delta and staying in Can Tho and Vinh Long. We then made our way to bustling Saigon, an extremely modern and friendly city where we met some nice locals and soaked up the culture. On to beach bumming, we spent two busy days in Mui Ne, touring the long stretch of beach on two wheels and searching for the famous sand dunes. The cloudy and windy beach reminded us of home with waves crashing into the sand, churning up the shells. Which brings us to where we are now. Tomorrow we will loop back to the coast to the city of Nha Trang. For now, we leave you with photos of Vietnam so far, heavy on the food for our biggest fan (you know who you are).


Our favorite after-dinner treat found near the market of Dalat. This woman sells three types of soy milks: cocoa, green bean and regular. You can get a steaming cup of soy milk with any of these delicious pastries for about $.50. We have made friends with the young boy on the left and tell him that we will "see him tomorrow" everynight. Our loyalty has kept us in Dalat for about 4 days now, tonight we will have to say goodbye for good (so sad!).
A well deserved bowl of stew after our 5 hour hike which ended in cool rain showers and clouds. We're not sure what its called, but it came with fresh shredded lettuce, mung beans and basil to add and was pretty tasty.

Colin on the peak. At 6,600ft it was a little chilly, a fact compounded by the ominous rain clouds that lurk in the background. The views from up here were still amazing and well worth the sometimes grueling climb through the jungle to get here.

A view of the trail through the pines on Lang Bian Mountain. We took a couple of detours from the "trail" (it was a paved road with jeeps zooming past for most of the way) to wander through the woods.

A view from the base of Lang Bian Mountain outside of Dalat. We rented a motorbike and rode out here, where we hiked to the peak (the tallest peak that is).


Colin stops for a treat in Dalat. This one is flattened rice with sesame seeds covered with a quail egg and spring onions and grilled to perfection.

Amanda poses for a photo, Asian style in the "Crazy House" in Dalat. It is a hotel that was built by an artistic local woman who studied in Russia. Each room has a different theme and small and curcuitious passageways connect them.

The city of Dalat in the cool central highlands of Vietnam. It was a treat to sleep with a blanket and wear long sleeves in the cool evenings! Finally we can eat pho without sweating into our bowl. We have found a little piece of the northwest here with a mountain to climb, wine to drink, and tandem bicycles to rent. This photo is of the bustling city center, where in the foreground a construction worker pounds some cement.




On our last day in Mui Ne we found the Sahara, or at least something looking like it. There were many kids at the base of the dunes offering to rent little sleds to bomb down them. We, being lame-os, opted out and just appreciated the views of the sand and sea beyond.

Amanda enjoying the cool breeze atop one of the many famous sand dunes around Mui Ne. We rode some rented bikes in search of the Sahara-like dunes we had heard about, but found only these. Impressive none the less.

A line of fishing boats on the beach in Mui Ne. Many boats here in Vietnam have eyes painted on the fronts of them. We don't really know why, but possibly to guide them safely home. Mui Ne beach stretches for 20km and has many sea walls instead of sand to protect the land from the powerful waves of the South China Sea.

On our last day in Saigon we visited a Fine Arts Museum housed in an old French colonial building. This statue was called "Villagers, learn to hate your enemy". There were many propaganistic paintings of valiant Viet Minh soldiers fighting the aggressors, much like in the War Remanants Museum that we saw the day before. It has been interesting to learn more about the Vietnam War (called the American War here) through the eyes of the Vietnamese people.
The city streets of Saigon were clogged with hundreds of motorbikes. Zebra stripes aren't a safe haven, ever.


One of the many large governmental buildings in Saigon. Saigon is a suprisingly clean and modern city, comprable to Kuala Lumpur. We spent three days here, museum hopping, urban hiking and visiting the zoo. We also drank our fare share of bia hoi and met some friendly locals in the process.

After the market we took the boat around a small island to see the production of tapioca based noodles. Then we crept through some mangroves. The boat captian took a break to make us some flowers out of palm fronds and teach Amanda how to do it too. Colin stepped up and rowed the boat for a while.
A market seller at a floating market surveying the area. The pajamas that she is wearing are ubiquitious in Vietnam, they look amazingly comfortable in the heat. The market had many large boats full of fresh fruits and veggies, as well as smaller ones hawking soup and coffee. It was quite a sight just to see a bustling market floating by as our guide stood in the back of the boat rowing us along.
Sunrise over the Mekong as we wake bright and early for a tour of one of the largest floating markets in the delta. From the description in our guide book we expected the delta to be covered with rice paddies and small towns. What we saw was one nearly continuous city from the border with Cambodia to Saigon. This tour on the Mekong was the one exception.
Bia hoi, quite possibly the cheapest beer in the world. Bia hoi, literally meaning fresh beer, is brewed for immediate consumption and can pack a punch at 5% alcohol for a minimal $.40 a liter. Not too shabby and pretty ngon (Vietnamese for delicious).

Colin oddly nearly gets bit by a penguin while discarding some trash in the Mekong Delta, Can Tho. A lot of the trash cans in Vietnam are shaped like animals, a touch of cute city planning we haven't seen for a while (trash cans alone being the city planning, penguin shaped ones being cute).

Our first bowl of steaming hot pho bo. We have searched near and far, eating pho every day to find the perfect bowl. This first one still takes the cake as the best (in Can Tho, Mekong Delta area).
Crossing over (by foot) from Cambodia to Vietnam we see paved roads and our first taste of triumphant Communist architecture. The border post leaving Cambodia was a wooden shack, the one for Vietnam a large, modern looking building. Lurking in that building was our first Vietnamese con-man, taking us to "catch a bus" where he tried to charge us $30 for a two hour ride which we knew only cost $2. We blew him off and found our way back into town, obviously.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Southern Cambodia: Beach Bumming, Eco-Touring, and Chilling Peace Corps Style

After Phnom Penh we headed southwest to Chi Phat, a small village with a new eco-tourism program aimed to protect the surrounding wilderness. We continued on to some serious beach time in Sihanoukville and on to Kampot where we met Nathan and Jen. We followed them home to Kampong Trach, where they generously housed us and we cooked epic dinners, relaxed, and got to know their market ladies. We spent the holiday weekend on Rabbit Island and Kep, another relaxing retreat where we didn't feel like tourists. Our lazy southern schlep was a vacation from a vacation, we got to sweep the floors and do dishes like normal people, and best of all spend some time with friends from home. We also discovered baby powder for freshies, that Khmer curry is eaten with bread and the wrath of the oncoming monsoon season.


Colin and Jen giddily awaiting the rainstorm on the roof of Nathan and Jen's house. Their house, on the second story is a pretty sweet set up with a balcony attached to their room and lots of open space. Once the rain comes, it sounds like you're inside a steel drum since the roof is corrugated metal. It makes for a pretty exciting time, especially when you're making Massaman curry from scratch and screaming directions over the noise.
Amanda cycling around Kampong Trach's famous Phnom (hill/mountain) which has several caves and a pagoda. Kampong Trach is where Jen and Nathan live and teach English in the Peace Corps. We spent over a week with them in their village and visiting Rabbit Island and Kep. The surrounding countryside in their province is the most beautiful we saw in Cambodia.

Colin had a baby! And then we chopped it up. We asked for a fresh jackfruit which we saw growing at our guesthouse and were given three, but were only able to take back one. Unfortunatly, it needs 2 days to ripen after being cut from the tree, whoops.

The view from Tree Top Guesthouse in Kep, Cambodia. Bokor Hill is in the background with the ocean in the middle. We stumbled upon this guesthouse when Nathan and Jen's go-to was booked. It was a beautiful place with comfortable huts set in a durian farm (it wasn't smelly, only Colin was).
Can you name this tree? We can't, but it's beautiful and lines the streets of Kep, Cambodia.
Our last afternoon on Rabbit Island, we hide in the shade under the Cambodian flag waiting for our boat.
Being true Seattelites in the tropics, we spend a morning hiking around the island to explore. This photo was taken by a seaweed farm on the western side of the island. We're not sure what they use it for, but they had a lot of it.
Chilling on the beach with Nathan and Jen, viewing mainland Cambodia from afar. We spent two nights on Rabbit Island and each night went out for some amazing night swimming where we could see phosfouressence, glowing like an orb around us.
Two bugs on a boat to Rabbit Island, although one is looking a bit like a babushka.

French colonial shop houses line the streets of Kampot, Cambodia. Kampot is a pretty small river-side town with beautiful views of Bokor Hill in the background. We met Nathan and Jen here for a night out to fajita's at an expat joint.

A spectacular rainbow sunset viewed from our happy hour spot on Otres Beach. They had $.50 draft beer with the most ingenious way of cooling it, ask Colin for more details.

The best way to eat on the beach is from the roaming seafood ladies hawking "lobster" aka languistines and BBQ'd squid. Pretty, pretty, pretty......pretty good!

Two boat shaped bungalows on Otres Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia. We spent a few days on this beach, swimming, relaxing and doing a lot of nothing.

Amanda on an afternoon stroll through Chi Phat and the surrounding villages. There were some beautiful, brightly colored houses dotted throughout the forest. As villagers were becoming accustomed to tourists they would shout "hello" from under their stilted houses.

Kayaking upriver in the heat of the afternoon around Chi Phat and towards the foothills of the Cardmom Mountains. The town of Chi Phat is set up as an eco-tourism cooperative to combat illegal logging and poaching in the forest, inviting tourists to explore the natural environment with local guides, bringing money to the community.

Attempting to view sunset from a "mountain" (small hill) in Chi Phat, we find a Frenchman cycling through the countryside. The menacing clouds seen in the background would unleash a horrible monsoon in about 5 minutes. We tried to hide, but there was no way out and we found ourselves wading through knee deep shit water in 30 minutes. Amanda fretted about the future of her camera's life as Colin dragged two bikes through the deluge.

A waterfall we biked to in Chi Phat. Further down the river we swam with some water buffalo in a large water hole, not exactly hygenic.

This boat wouldn't have passed emmissions, but it floated us along with a ton of supplies 2 hours up river to Chi Phat. The boat captian and his friend invited us to drink a beer with them which lead to drinking our ginseng infused rice whiskey and communicating nonverbally for the rest of the trip. Throughout the trip Colin learned one Khmer word, pleung, which means rain, a word that would come in handy soon. Cambodian men love to invite Colin to drink with them, and sometimes they will let Amanda drink too, but not always.

Under the bridge waiting for the cargo boat to take us to Chi Phat, we lent our camera to a group of kids that took about 1 billion photos. This is one of them.

Boats lined up in Anduong Tuek, Cambodia. We stopped at this village (amazingly enough as our bus driver cruised past it even though we told him 3 times thatwe wanted to stop there) to explore the Koh Kong Nature Corridor, a protected area that streches from mangrove coast to the Cardomom Mts. in the north. We stayed in this sleepy village for one night with a third roommate, a rat.